Tips of sewing knitwear on a regular sewing machine

Many who tried to sew knitwear on a regular sewing machine, noticed that often the machine refuses to make a beautiful and even line. Skips are formed in the knit stitch, the lower thread winds and sometimes breaks. Why is this happening and how can I fix it?

First of all, a special knitting machine is used for sewing knitted fabrics, it is called a flat-weaving machine - rasposhivalka or a chain stitch machine. The seam on her back side looks like a pigtail. Look at any factory-made T-shirt, and you will be convinced.

Secondly, a knit overlock with a differential (stretching fabric) rail with the simultaneous laying of a stitching chain stitch is used to stitch knit sections.

And thirdly, special needles and threads are used for sewing knitwear. The last point is crucial for your sewing machine,so let's see what kind of needle you need to sew knitwear, which threads you need to use to get a quality stitch and consider other factors affecting the quality of the stitch.

Knitting needles

There are a lot of reasons influencing the quality of the formed stitch when sewing a knit. One of them is an incorrectly selected needle. Universal needles, which are most often used on sewing machines, are “poorly” suitable for sewing knitwear. It is not enough that the sharp edge of the needle can damage the interlacing of the knitted fabric, so it can also be the cause of a too small loop near the needle eye. And the nose of the shuttle just passes by it, without grabbing the upper thread. As a result, there are omissions.

Replace the universal needle with a special needle with a rounded tip, designed for sewing such fabrics. A needle with such a spike does not pierce the knit fibers, but passes between them and creates the best conditions for the formation of a loop. On the package with such needles is the inscription "Jersy", and "ball point" means that the needles have a rounded tip.

However, you should know that buying a package of special knitting needles does not always solve the problem, especially for old-type sewing machines, such as Podolskaya or Chaika.There are a number of other factors, which will be discussed below.

This diagram shows knitted weaving of stretch type fabrics. Outwardly, it resembles knitting or typing, which is why it is called a knitted fabric. "Spring" loops give the tissues many useful qualities, for example, stretchability, weak crushing, etc., but at the same time create certain difficulties when sewing them on ordinary household sewing machines.

Threads for knitted fabrics and their tension

Sew jersey "loves" no straight-line machine. Knitwear for the sewing machine of the shuttle stitch is a test that not all machines can withstand. True, modern household machines quite cope with this task, subject to certain requirements. As you already understood, one of them is a quality thread and its correct tension.

Sewing threads should be thin, elastic and durable. Basically, all types of modern threads, available in the furniture department, correspond to these parameters. But, nevertheless, you need to empirically determine which type of thread is best for your typewriter.

Naturally, you need to “forget” about finishing thick threads, and even more so about threads from grandmother's old stocks. Ideally, for sewing knitted fabrics fit threads on conical large spools, but since they are quite expensive use threads on small reels such as "Ideal".

Before sewing knitwear, you need to properly adjust the tension of the upper and lower threads.

Usually, the lower thread should not be adjusted, but when sewing knitwear it often allows you to eliminate the looping of the thread in the line. If, when the upper thread is tightened, the looping at the bottom does not stop, then try a little to loosen the tension of the lower thread.

Note that when you grind parts from knitted fabric, in one direction the stitch will be weaker (usually lateral). Eliminate this "effect" with the help of tension will not succeed. Just knit under the influence of paws and teeth of the cakes stretch, and then takes the same shape and stitches are weakened. By the way, the pressure of the foot is also necessary to regulate.

To eliminate this use stabilizers (pads), including pre-cut strips from a newspaper.A paper strip is laid under the fabric, and then, carefully pulled out of the seam. By the way, often just such a “cunning” method can eliminate gaps in a line at a sewing machine Podolskaya or Chaika.

But, of course, this is too extravagant way, which is undesirable to use. If you replaced the needles and picked up the threads, adjusted the tension, and the looping and skips did not disappear, then you need to adjust the sewing machine. But only an experienced craftsman can adjust for sewing knitwear.

What is the difference knit overlock

Virtually all modern household overlocks are knitted overlocks. The main difference between the knit overlock and the usual is that the knit overlock has a special reiki device (teeth under the foot). During operation, the rail specifically squeezes (stretches) the knitted fabric, and after grinding, the fabric is stretched back (tightened). As a result, the seam is tensile and withstands more tensile stress.

For example, if you knit a knitted fabric on an ordinary typewriter, and at the same time pull the thread tension a lot to eliminate the slack in the line, you will get a very beautiful stitch, but not strong. Stretch this area with your hands, and your beautiful seam will just burst.This is the main purpose of knitting machines - to perform an elastic and tensile seam.

The overlock with a differential rail can sew not only knitwear. This feature is easy to disable using a special pen. And even, on the contrary, you can "make" the rail to collect fabric. You need to know that overlock old models, including overlock class 51 can not perform high quality processing knitted fabrics. And do not be surprised if the connecting seams of knitted clothing, treated only with a three-thread overlock, will eventually burst.

Other reasons because of which the machine does not sew knitwear

Well, the last. Sewing machines Podolsk or the Seagull sewing machine often refuse to sew knitwear at all. And even the master can not always adjust it for sewing knitted fabric. If you want to check the work of the sewing machine repair technician, ask at the end of the work to stitch a piece of the most “harmful” knitted fabric. If the line does not have even one pass, then this is a “good” and experienced master.

Old cars have a different adjustment of the interaction of the needle and the nozzle of the shuttle.Indeed, in those days when they were released, no one suspected that such fabrics would be used very often. Therefore, modern machines are tuned for sewing knitwear, and old machines need to be reconfigured.


Date: 09.10.2018, 12:43 / Views: 64574

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